I rarely blind buy fragrances, but New Wave, Merit’s brand new scent was the exception. I followed the launch on Merit’s Instagram and fell in love with the creativity and thoughtfulness behind their second fragrance (Retrospect, their first, launched in late 2024). I especially loved the video of perfumers Dominique Ropion and Meabh McCurtin talking through the creation of New Wave. I’m a sucker for behind the scenes looks at the talent that goes into making a product.
Spoiler alert: this fragrance is *exactly* what I hoped it would be. To me, fragrances are storytelling. I choose a scent based on my mood or the feeling I want to embody, and New Wave spoke to me because it’s intentionally unconventional: spicy and moody, yet sensual and warm. I haven’t stopped wearing it since it arrived.
First Impressions & Packaging
Merit is known for its sleek, minimalist aesthetic, and New Wave fits right in. The glass bottle, inspired by surrealist art, curves and catches the light as if it’s in motion. It’s a beautiful addition to my fragrance shelf.
New Wave is an extrait de parfum, meaning it’s roughly 30% fragrance oil (compared with about 5-15% in an eau de toilette and 15-20% in an eau de parfum). That higher concentration gives it a richer feel as it melts into the skin, and I’m very impressed by its longevity. I could still detect it 6+ hours after spraying.
New Wave Scent Notes
Top notes: New Wave opens bright and spicy with pink peppercorn and angelica seed. It’s slightly green and woody, which gives it an immediate, distinctive scent.
Heart notes: As it unfolds, ylang-ylang and orange blossom add a touch of creaminess and warmth. Honestly, these are the notes I smell the least.
Base notes: The dry down is where New Wave really sings. Rich, smoky benzoin and oakwood give it an addictive, incense-like depth, while vanilla and tonka bean bring a sensual, cozy finish.
How New Wave Performs
My favorite thing about New Wave is the journey it takes you on as it develops. It wears like a chameleon. At first it’s spicy and energetic, the kind of scent you’d wear to make a statement and feel powerful. Then it settles into something that feels like a warm hug. I love that duality. It’s confident, spicy, and leans masculine (though it’s marketed as unisex), yet it’s still incredibly wearable for everyday.
Who Should Wear New Wave (and Who Should Skip It)
This fragrance is for you if you love warm, complex amber-resin bases. It’s a sophisticated scent that’s perfect for fall and winter. If you’re typically drawn to light, sweet, or fruity fragrances, I’d skip this one.
Final Thoughts: Is Merit’s New Wave Worth the Blind Buy?
For me, absolutely. I’m thrilled with this blind buy, I’m already addicted, and I can’t wait to see what Merit comes up with next.
New Wave is available at Merit and Sephora – $92 for 30 mL and $34 the travel size .30 mL.
